Ten Pound Tomato Grow Organic – Eat Better

August 5, 2010

Composting Backyard Gardener-style: How to compost when you live in town

Filed under: Composting,Newsletter Archive — Perry Droast @ 11:45 pm

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Tomato Invasion Newsletter #5


The type of composting that works best when you live in town on a small or normal sized lot must be adapted for your circumstances. If you live on a farm or have a very large area devoted to your garden and your compost pile, then you have a lot more options available to you.

When you live on a quarter acre or smaller, efficient use of space becomes paramount. Through the years I’ve adapted and improved my methods specifically for backyard gardening. Not only that, my garden has typically been confined to a few small beds along with other more traditional planting beds most people would plant flowers or small shrubs in.

We love the fresh produce straight out of the garden. However we also have three dogs that need space to play and our current house has a swimming pool as well. So my garden shares the yard, it doesn’t take up the whole place.

So when it comes time to collect enough material to build a new compost pile, I’ve learned to plan ahead and make good use of all the plant material my yard provides.

Plan your composting year

Why would you need to plan your composting year? Because when you garden in town and don’t have a great deal of material to work with much of the year, you need to plan ahead.

I typically build two compost piles a year, one in the spring and one in the fall. Depending on my compost needs I’ll add another one into the mix, usually in the fall.

Build a pile in the fall for your spring planting

The easiest time to get plenty of free compost material is the fall. Our town has lots of trees and piles of leaves appear everywhere in the fall. The city comes around once a week and collects them.

As long as you get there first, they’re free for the taking. In years past, I’ve taken whole pickup truck loads of leaves in front of houses of complete strangers and never once has anyone stop me or even asked why I want the leaves. They obviously don’t know how valuable their leaves are or they would use them to build their own compost pile.

My own tree in the front yard supplies enough leaves for about half a compost pile in the fall. Unfortunately the second tree is a eucalyptus and the leaves aren’t appropriate to compost. Not only that, eucalyptus leaves fall in small amounts all year round instead of all at once like a typical deciduous tree.

No eucalyptus or walnut leaves please!

Eucalyptus contains oils not compatible with most plants. Walnut leaves are another type you don’t want in your pile. Walnut leaves contain juglone and are toxic to many types of plants although some plants don’t seem to have any problem growing under or near walnut trees.

There’s a good article found here, http://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/430/430-021/430-021.html from the Virginia Cooperative Extension including information on plants that tolerate juglone as well as plants that can be stunted or even killed by it.

I also prune my shiny xylosma bushes in the fall and shred the branches with the leaves still attached. This gives me quite a bit of green material to add to the pile along with the fallen leaves.

The fall pile is now built. And the compost should be ready to use in the spring.

Build a spring pile for your winter garden

Because I live in California in zone 8, I grow a winter garden. My wife likes the winter garden better than the summer garden. It’s easier to take care of and we grow lots of fun stuff like broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, lettuce, carrots, onions, and my favorite, brussels sprouts.

So in the spring, I’m planning for the late summer/fall planting season. For that, I need compost.

So I prune my xylosma again, collect the leaves that have accumulated underneath, and prune the potato bush. I get enough material from three xylosma and one potato bush to build a decent sized compost pile twice a year. That along with the leaves they drop through the year along with a large arbor covered with star jasmine that also gets pruned twice a year, I get a great deal of compost material from my own yard.

As I rotate flowers through the planting beds I compost the ones I’ve pulled out as well.

As you can see, a few mature bushes can really give you almost all the compost material you need.

In mid-winter, at least what we call mid-winter, which is late December or early January, I trim the trees and the grapes. I shred all this material too, layering it into the fall pile as I turn it. Winter is a good time for me to add grass clippings into the pile too.

In the summer, my lawn has bermuda, crab grass, weeds, and all kinds of undesirable elements I don’t like to put in my compost pile. My lawn was already in this condition when we bought the house and I haven’t applied much effort to fix it. I’m not interested in re-sodding the yard so we live with it for now.

But in the winter, the only grass that grows is the dwarf tall fescue which is a perfect addition to the compost pile. High in nitrogen, no seeds, and decomposes quickly too.

Build another pile if you need it

Because I have a three-bin compost system in my backyard, I can have two piles going at once if I really need it. If you really need more compost then go ahead and build another pile.

Here’s where getting creative may not be enough. You may need to buy some material to build your pile if you don’t have access to enough free materials from friends and neighbors.

Quick and dirty way to build a compost pile for around $10

Typically, I don’t like to pay for compost material and I don’t usually recommend it either. However, if you just plain run out of options, there is a cheap and reliable way to get enough material to build a pile.

Locate your local feed store and buy a bale of hay and a bale of straw. Around here, hay is alfalfa and a good source of green material high in nitrogen. Straw is a good brown or carbon material. I would recommend shredding the straw somewhat as it can be a little too coarse for easy decomposition in the pile.

Hay usually costs $8 to $15 a bale, and straw is typically less. So for around $10 to $20 you can build a nice compost pile. I would recommend only using about half the bale of hay or your pile may have too much nitrogen and get out of balance.

Go to Starbucks and fill’er up

What? You read right. Go down to your local Starbucks or other local coffee vendor and ask for the spent coffee grounds. Coffee grounds are high in nitrogen and break down fast in your pile. Other restaurants may be willing to save their vegetable scraps for you,  but you better be ready, because they may give you so much material, you can’t utilize it all.

Good planning means compost available when you need it

By planning your composting activities for the whole year, you should be more than able to take care of all your compost needs. You really don’t need to write it down on the calendar, just remember to build a pile when the leaves fall in the autumn, and another one in the spring. Simple and effective.

You may have to adapt to a colder climate than I do so you will need to adjust the timing to suit your area. As a last resort, you can probably find organic compost at your local nursery. The nursery I go to carries it. I’ve used it in the past when planting shrubs and trees. I probably wouldn’t use it in my food garden though. I’m not a trusting soul when it comes to “organic” compost. I like to make my own.

This system helps me adapt to a small yard without having to resort to buying materials for my own composting needs.

July 6, 2010

How to Fix a Stinky Compost Pile

Filed under: Composting,Newsletter Archive — Tags: — Perry Droast @ 11:27 pm

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By Perry Droast
The Backyard Gardener
Newsletter #1

About two weeks ago, I added quite a bit of new material to my working compost pile. I trimmed the star jasmine on a trellis near the swimming pool. I shredded all the trimmings along with a healthy pile of old dry leaves I collected from the area. Believing I had a decent mixture of brown and green materials that would balance each other out, I layered the material in and then proceeded to ignore the pile for over a week.

That was a mistake.

When I got around to adding the kitchen scraps for the last week to the pile I discovered my pile had developed a non-healthy stench. Sort of a cross between ammonia and something entirely more foul. Not only that, there were large patches of a white substance mixed in.

If you’ve never experienced either of these phenomena in your own compost pile, you haven’t composted long enough. Or maybe you just don’t ever get enough green material high enough in nitrogen to take the pile out of balance. Or even better yet, you balance your pile properly all the time. Any hints or tricks you use to better balance your pile between green and brown, let me know and I’ll share them with the entire TenPoundTomato family. And I’ll credit you properly too.

Embarrassingly enough, the ‘stinky pile’ syndrome has happened to me many times in my 28 years of composting. I’m not proud of it. I do accept it as just being part of the organic gardening experience.

Fortunately, I’ve developed a strategy sure to bring the pile back into balance quickly when this happens. Before we get to the solution though, I’d like to explain briefly how and why a compost pile gets out of balance and starts to stink in the first place.

Three main reasons a pile gets stinky...

  1. Not enough air: The inside of the pile literally runs out of oxygen. The healthy aerobic bacteria that help speed the decomposition process require a lot of oxygen to thrive. That’s one of the main reasons to turn a pile inside out regularly.
  2. Too much green – not enough brown: The pile has too much nitrogen and not enough carbon based materials. In plain English, that means too much green stuff got mixed in without enough brown stuff to compensate. For instance, if you mow the lawn and add the clippings to the pile without also adding some compensating brown materials, like long dead leaves or shredded paper, your pile often heats up too fast.
  3. Anaerobic bacteria take over: When that happens, one of two scenarios plays out rather quickly. Or in the case of my pile both happened at once. The pile got so hot, in some areas the aerobic bacteria start to die in large numbers, creating the white areas in the pile. It also turned anaerobic (decomposing in the absence of air) and the pile started to stink. It smells so bad because the anaerobic bacteria release very smelly gases trapping them into the pile. These gases aren’t released from the pile until you decide to turn it.

The longer it sits, the worse it stinks by the way. One of the least agreeable aspects of this, at least for me, is that it seems like all the flies in the county descend on my pile as I turn it. It’s a good thing this only happens once every few years. If the neighbors come over for a visit during this turning process, they’ll probably question your sanity and the legality of having a compost pile in your backyard too.

Compost piles are legal…even if they do stink once in awhile

Thank God compost piles are legal, and the flies leave once the outside of the pile dries out a little bit. After the outside dries out, the stink is only on the inside of the pile and not floating over the fence into your neighbors backyard.

Here’s how to fix a stinky pile

The strategy I’ve developed through the years takes a little energy, a little shredded paper, and a little time. The easiest and fastest way to help your pile regain it’s aerobic balance is to add air and brown materials high in carbon and low in nitrogen. There’s really only one way to get some more air in the pile. That’s to turn it inside out. It’s a lot easier to do this than it sounds. Grab your gardening fork and dig in.

As you move your pile from one bin to the next, or one spot to the next, fluff all the materials by breaking up all the clumps. Once you get a layer fluffed up spray it down with some water unless it’s too wet already and then spread some shredded paper on top of the new pile and wet it down too. Repeat in thin layers of no more than an inch of old material mixed with some dry leaves, shredded paper, or sawdust. I spread the paper shreds in very thin layers, barely obscuring the layer below. Repeat until the entire pile has been turned and re-layered.

Essentially, you need to get a lot of oxygen (air) inside the pile along with some brown material to offset the nitrogen.

So how often do you need to turn the pile, once it gets stinky?

I would recommend no more then three days apart. Better yet, turn the pile again in two days, at least the first time. Then every three days for the next couple weeks. As long as you add some brown material each time you turn it, the pile should re-balance quickly. Who knew you’d actually hope more junk mail would show up in the mailbox so you can add the shredded paper to your compost pile. You’ll know the pile is rebalanced and aerobic again when it doesn’t stink when you turn it. A properly active compost pile will smell earthy without being offensive. Your compost is almost finished when the pile stops heating up so much after you turn it.

Once it stops heating up, keep the pile moist, although you don’t need to turn it anymore. By keeping the pile moist, you keep the bacteria alive within the pile. After the pile sits for a couple more weeks, I recommend finding a spot in your garden to use it right away. The active bacteria help continue the decomposition process and make the nutrients available to the plants in your garden.

If you must keep it for a while without using it, continue keeping it moist and keep it covered. Covering it serves two purposes, to help it stay moist and to keep the rain from washing the nutrients away.

My pile is back to normal now

By the way, my pile is almost back to normal, not smelling bad when I turn it, yet still heating up nicely. And I can’t tell what most of the contents were originally, so after it sits for a few weeks, I’ll find a nice planting bed to fertilize.

As always, if you find any mistakes, have any comments to add, or just wish to share your thoughts, please email me and I’ll be sure to respond.

Happy composting and gardening,

Perry Droast – The Backyard Gardener

July 4, 2010

Can you really fertilize your whole garden without spending a dime?

Filed under: Composting — Perry Droast @ 11:09 pm

Yes you can.

By making your own organic compost you can actually feed your whole garden without spending any money at all. I did it last year. Although I did fudge just a little. I had leftover seaweed extract in a gallon jug so I didn’t have to buy any. I usually make it last a couple years and last year I had enough to go around.

Why bother to make your own compost?

The most important reason to make your own compost is so you know exactly what materials went into it. This way you maintain control over the organic integrity of your garden.

Even though you can buy organic compost at your local garden center or home improvement center, you can’t be entirely sure all the ingredients that went into the compost were organic, or at least not contaminated with pesticide, herbicide, or other toxic residues. When I collect the leaves from my own trees, I know they’re organic.

When I collect the leaves from the pile in the street in front of my neighbor’s house, I know he at least didn’t spray the tree with any pesticides. So although his leaves may not be completely organic, by the time they’ve been through the composting process I feel good about putting the compost in my garden.

By making your own compost, you’re following the government mandate to reduce the waste stream going into the local land fill. In California where I live, the state passed a law mandating the waste stream be cut in half a few years ago. Most cities and counties in California now separate the green waste and wood-type materials from the main garbage, shred it, and compost it. Then they sell it back to the people that paid them to haul it off in the first place.

It’s not likely you’ll reduce your garbage bill by not sending your yard waste out in the green can, although at least you know you’ve done your part in helping to preserve our landfill space for future generations.

Better yet, making your own compost becomes an almost zen-like activity that feeds your soul as you also make the magical product that feeds your garden later. Personally, I find the activity of building the pile, creating finished compost, and then later feeding my garden with the finished compost very fulfilling.

My grandfather showed me how to compost before I even went to kindergarten and I’ve never forgotten the lessons even though he died while I was still quite young.

How do you make compost anyway?

There are four basic methods of making compost.

  1. The cold pile – the least work and the slowest way to make compost.
  2. The hot pile – more work, sometimes lots of work, the fastest way to make compost, and the most weed-free and disease-free end product.
  3. Compost tumblers – a little more work than the cold pile, typically the fastest way to make compost, kills weed seeds and diseases too.
  4. Worm bins – this is really a sub-method of composting your kitchen scraps into a very concentrated form of garden fertilizer consisting of worm castings and occasionally liquid off the bottom of the bin that is also highly concentrated nutrition for your plants.

So let’s get started.
Getting started making your own compost can be very simple, or you can make it into a complicated project. When I first got started, I composted in piles almost anywhere I could. You can start this way too and you’ll still make great compost.

You can make a compost bin out of a wide variety of materials. People use old wooden pallets, bales of hay, cinder block, scrap lumber, chicken wire, and just about anything else you can think of to confine the pile.

My wife makes me keep the pile out of view of the back patio. Fortunately our yard has a good spot hidden from view. I suggest you do the same in order to keep the peace within your household. Or at least agree on a spot before you start building.

Once you’ve picked out the site, either build the bin, the bin system, or move your tumbler into position.

I highly recommend you shred your materials before tossing them into the pile. There are several methods of shredding or chopping up the materials before adding them into the pile.

You can...

  • use a chipper/shredder if you own one or can borrow one.
  • run the pile over with your lawn mower
  • cut things up by hand
  • let the dogs chew them up – of course this takes time and then you have to pick it up all over the yard
  • put it in a spare trash can and use your string trimmer to chop it up. This works best with leaves and small clippings.

Layer it in or toss it in
If you are going to build a traditional compost pile on the ground, you can start building the layers now. It doesn’t matter if you have a bin, or a wire enclosure, or nothing at all, just start building the layers.

Try using a layer of brown and then a layer of green material. Make sure to spray each layer with the garden hose to make it moist. You don’t want it soaking wet, but it needs to be moist.

If you own a tumbler, then just toss it in, spray a little water in behind it, close it up, and give it a few spins to mix it up. With a tumbler, you need to check it each day to make sure it’s moist enough and you need to give it a little spin to mix everything up again.

This is the easiest way to compost as long as you can afford the tumbler and you can give it daily attention.

If you build a hot pile, you’ll need to check and turn it regularly. Only experience will tell you how often you need to turn it and what you may need to add to make the pile work properly.

A cold pile is really one of the easiest ways to compost, although it can often turn hot depending on what types of materials you add and how much you add. In a cold climate, you may have no choice in the matter for the cold part of the year. It can be more difficult to build a hot pile when it’s well below freezing outside.

Congratulations, You’ve done it
You’ve now gotten started on one of the most rewarding activities and one that pays good dividends year after year. Organic compost helps protect your plants from disease, feeds them slowly and well without burning the roots, and best of all, it’s free.

Last year, I didn’t spend a dime on fertilizer for my garden. Next year, your fertilizer bill can be the same. Anyway you look at it, you’ll have to admit that spending next to nothing to fertilize your whole garden sounds pretty good.

Get started now so you can have a nice pile of compost to feed your garden with next year. Or even sooner if you choose.

If you’re interested in learning more about making your own compost check out my new ebook that contains pretty much everything you need to make your own compost.

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